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Mount Kenya Climb

Author: Jim Gully

Jim Gully, husband of Alice, climbed Mount Kenya during their recent Kenyan trip. Here’s his account of scaling this, the highest mountain in Kenya and second highest in Africa.

A very exciting two week trip to Kenya in September 2006 and it looks like I have a couple of days to kill in the itinerary while Alice visits camps and lodges in Northern Kenya ... a chance to put my feet up and relax, taking advantage of some of the wonderful local hospitality. Think again, Alice has decided that my expanding waist line and sedentary lifestyle needs a bit of a shock and has booked me in to trek up Mount Kenya. Having enjoyed Kilimanjaro and Mt Meru in Tanzania a few years before this sounded like an excellent idea.

I arrive at the Mountian Rock Lodge at lunchtime on Day 1 to be introduced to my guide, porter and cook for the adventure ahead. After a hearty lunch, we pile into the back of a small mini-bus with various other porters and make the one hour journey to the park gate. The increasingly bumpy road heralds our arrival at Sirimon Park gate the starting point for the trek, nestled in below the forest with the mountain standing majestically above. After some quiet negotiations between the team on the division of loads and some amiable admin on passport details and other official essentials, we were off at 2pm.

The afternoon saw us walking up a rough road for four hours, starting below the tree line and ending up at Old Moses hut just above the tree line at [3300 metres]. At first we pass though ancient forest, which looms above us full of strange sounds. My guide keeps me going at a sensible pace, always with one eye on the encroaching shadows as I'm told they often encounter elephant and buffalo moving through the forest. The foliage changes as we gain altitude becoming denser with the towering trees giving way to dense bush, but thankfully we didn't encounter anything scarier than a troop of baboons at close quarters.

Old Moses hut is fairly simple with a series of basic rooms side by side, all with about four bunk beds in each. The long corridor running along the front of the rooms acts as the eating area with long trestle tables and electric lighting. Having found a berth for the night, it’s time to see who else is around - three tired Canadians on their way down after two of them made it successfully to Pt. Lenana 4985m, the trekkers peak first thing in the morning. Also two experienced Korean climbers, a student and a doctor, on their way up with mountains of kit for some serious climbing. Out of interest the doctor is busy testing heart rates and oxygen levels, which warns me that the oxygen level in my blood is already lower than it should be.

It's an early start on Day 2, up at about 6.30am for an 8am start but fully rewarded with a spectacular view of the peaks in the distance. After a good nights’ sleep I'm determined to walk slowly to allow my oxygen levels to adjust as we gradually ascend. We're on the open mountain now, covered in rough tundra and grassland – over the next eight hours we cross two high ridges before dropping into a deep valley that sweeps right to left for 10 km's up to the base of the peaks themselves. My guide keeps up a steady stream of conversation all the way, dispelling myths and filling in some of the considerable gaps in my knowledge about Kenya and its customs. We pass literally a handful of other trekkers heading off the mountain and the generous packed lunch is well appreciated and helps to boost the energy levels as we move along the mountain tracks.

We arrive at Shipton’s hut (4200 metres) at around 4pm and a thumping headache has set in after a steep incline just short of the hut, which is almost identical to the previous one. I hardly notice it though spellbound by the spectacular scenery, towering rocky ridges stretching away on both sides and the main peaks themselves immovable mountains of rock blocking the head of the valley. Straight ahead of me the trekkers peak rears up and away to the right the true peak mounts a silent challenge for any hardened climbers so inclined. The ridge between the two is crowned with snow and ice providing a stark contrast to the vastness of the rock walls. A bird of prey circles high above the craggy skyline searching for some unknown prey as it glides effortlessly over the scree covered slopes.

After a couple of hours my oxygen levels recover slightly and the headache fades, allowing me to join the other adventurers. A mountain guide from France and his ski instructor friend from Andorra have been camping on the mountain for the last couple of nights in high winds and are enjoying the relative luxury of the hut - running water for the loos and electric lighting. I'm mindful of my guides advice that it's important to keep the batteries charged, a simple formula of energy in and energy out, so despite not feeling hungry in the slightest I force down as much food as possible. Our cook does a fantastic job of providing endless plates of steaming hot goodies, lots of carbohydrates as well as a limitless supply of piping hot tea and coffee. Lemon squeezed into the tea seems to help keep the headache at bay and I manage to snatch a couple of hours sleep through the night.

At 3am on Day 3, I get a sharp wake up call from my guide. Its time for the summit, estimated to be four hours away and 800 metres above us. All timed in the hope of a spectacular summit sunrise. Getting ready doesn't take long as I'm already fully clothed to keep out the worst of the cold. As we head out into the raging wind in the pitch dark I'm very grateful for the four layers, the sturdy boots and gaiters and just as vital, the head torch to guide my every step. The pace is slow given the steep incline of the mountain proper and we're following a vague path with a patchy gravel surface. For every two steps forward, we slide one step back and it’s a constant struggle to find decent footing - exhausting enough with the two walking poles, I hate to think what it would be like without. A surreal three hours passes as we stumble forward, winding our way up the face of the mountain becoming increasingly aware of the vague outline of the ridge top above us.

We draw forward onto the left hand ridge leading to the summit and are met by the full force of the wind. It has started to snow heavily, moving from the relative shelter of the face and we're being buffeted hard as we scramble on. After half an hour the gloom of dawn falls away and we can make out the outline of the peak a couple of hundred feet above us. My guide draws me into the shadow of a large boulder and we huddle together for shelter, hoping for a break in the storm to allow us a clear route to the top. After ten minutes or so it is apparent that the driving snow and wind has no intention of abating so we carry on picking our way carefully over the ice covered rocks. The conditions under foot are treacherous and every step is tested before transferring weight, very aware of the vertical ravines tumbling away below us.

Heaving myself up the last couple of boulders we finally arrive at Pt. Lenana peak 4985m, greeted only by a small cairn of rocks, but equally a great sense of achievement. The chill wind swiftly drives us off the peak and on our downward journey, but all of a sudden the legs feel a little lighter, breathing is not quite so laboured and there's even energy left to offer encouragement to the two small groups that we pass on the way down. We're back to Shipton’s hut for breakfast by 8am and then straight on down the mountain to the gate which we reach by 2pm in the afternoon. The legs are feeling the long day by this stage and the last couple of hours down to the park gate is hard work, but worth it for the welcome sight of waiting transport and a very good nights’ sleep.

Potential advice for someone who hasn't done it before

• Drink loads and loads, even when not thirsty and have target levels that you must have in terms of number of litres to keep hydrated
• Eat loads and loads even when not hungry to keep energy levels up
• Walk extremely slowly on the way up to minimise the effects of altitude and allow the body to adjust
• Make sure you have the right kit - decent gloves, hats, jacket, sturdy boots and definitely gaiters plus torch spare batteries etc and walking poles
• Cash for tipping when you come off the mountain
  
  
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