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A New Kenyan Gem
It’s not often that we are overwhelmed by visiting a new camp but the sheer beauty of Sarara stuns Charlie Gray.
On a recent inspection tour of East Africa I’d already seen 28 camps in just a few days, and it would have taken a lot to impress me when I flew from Lewa Conservancy into Sarara. But then Sarara just took my breath away.
This new community project is set in the Namunyak region of the Laikipia Plateau, and is in a magical position. Ringed by the huge natural amphitheatre of the Mathews Mountains, it is a beautifully simple tented camp taking a maximum of ten guests, overlooking a natural swimming pool and waterhole. Run by Piers and Hilary Bastard in conjunction with the local Samburu tribesmen this is a classic example of the new tourism that is reclaiming parts of Kenya for wildlife, and sharing the proceeds with its indigenous residents.
Ten years ago this region was better known for its struggling agriculture. Since then fences have been torn down, poachers and farmers dispatched and Africa’s wildlife has taken back its heritage. It’s known for huge herds of elephant, especially in the dry season, but is also home to lion, leopard and two packs of wild dog. The full range of game viewing options is available, but here it is best to explore on foot, with local Namanyuk guides revealing the little secrets of their home territory. Mountain walks, fly-camping or trekking out to wild dog dens: the choice is endless, all backed by a personal, personable service from your local hosts and guides.
This would be an ideal starting point for a northern Kenya safari, or the perfect finale to any East African journey. In this setting, perhaps the most beautiful of any I’ve seen in Kenya, Sarara offers the chance to relax and immerse yourself in a true wilderness area, far from any crowds, as well as interact with the local community and slow down to trace their elegant way of life.
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