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Richard returns to Namibia
Richard visits Serra Cafema on the Kunene River and tracks Rhino at Palmwag Rhino Camp.
“I spent some time in Namibia a couple of years back running a charity bike ride for Save the Rhino. At the time I travelled extensively through the country, but I wasn’t able to get to the more remote camps; now it was time to head to these more inaccessible areas.
“Serra Cafema is in the far north west of Namibia, literally a stone’s throw from Angola. The Portuguese name for this extremely remote camp comes from the mountains to the north, which generally dominate the area. The camp is built within an island of ancient acacia trees on the banks of the Kunene River, in a region that is home to the nomadic Himba people. As the Kunene is the only source of water in the region, it cuts a green swathe through this rugged area of mountains and sand dunes.
“With its spectacular setting, I run out of superlatives to describe this extraordinary and amazing place. The camp offers walks, drives, quad bikes and boat trips and each allows you to take in the landscape in a different way. The scenery is big, big and simply bigger, totally awe inspiring and the colours varied beyond belief. The oryx, springbok and other wildlife species which eek out a living here are equally as impressive as the scenery in their resilience against the incredible heat, lack of vegetation and very little water.
“The Himba people are an integral part of the camp, both as staff members and as beneficiaries from concession fees with which they support clinics and schools. A visit to a nearby village could have been a contrived experience had we not been greeted with enthusiasm by the ochre decorated women, there does seem to be a genuine partnership between the owners of the camp and the community. My two night stay was all too short, but I left with a fixed perma-grin and memories of a truly wonderful place.
“The charity bike ride had raised funds for the Save the Rhino anti-poaching team based at Palmwag so it was fantastic to return here and see the developments which had taken place. This is the only place anywhere on earth that black rhino exist outside a protected area and the exact number is kept strictly confidential, although it’s known to be over one hundred individuals. Visitors to the new Rhino Camp will have the opportunity to track rhino with the Save the Rhino Team through these rock strewn desolate plains and ephemeral rivers. Over every rise a different, yet equally beautiful scene greets you and the number of other animals we saw including oryx, springbok, desert elephant and Hartmann’s mountain zebra were an added bonus.
Finally we found our rhino after a shortish trek standing under an acacia tree with his ears moving independently of each other searching for us and our sound. Fortunately he settled in the shade and we crept away leaving him in peace. I’ve been lucky in the past and seen a fair few rhino of the black and white variety in many parts of Africa, but it certainly adds to the experience to know that here in this part of Namibia they are truly free and we had been able to track them on foot.”
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