Newsletter Articles
Four teenagers. Two weeks. No Wi-Fi, Facebook, nightclubs, or shopping – a recipe for disaster?
Read on.
Author: Charlotte Opperman
We hadn't been to Africa since a wonderful holiday to Kenya nearly five years ago. So when an idle
conversation with family friends turned into a firm plan to visit again I was charged with finding an
itinerary that would suit all of us including new activities for those who'd visited before as well
as a proper, classic safari for the first timers.
After a bit of head scratching Zambia and Malawi got the nod: Zambia for the wealth of safari activities
on offer, and Lake Malawi for its reputation as a wonderful spot for post safari relaxation.
We started in Livingstone, an area well known for adrenaline fuelled pursuits, and we seemed to
have been there only five minutes before our lot were hurling themselves off a bridge, headlong into
the Zambezi Gorge, attached only to spindly pieces of elastic. They loved it, can't say I particularly
enjoyed watching but it was certainly an exhilarating start. Pictures of the Victoria Falls do nothing
to prepare you for the real thing - they are quite magnificent and the spray, even when the water levels
are fairly low, is something to be believed. We got totally drenched. A sunset river cruise and island
picnic lunch organized by Tongabezi, where we stayed for the two nights,was just a taster of what was
to come.
Next stop was the Lower Zambezi National Park - an area I've wanted to see for a long time having
heard others in the office wax lyrical about its abundant wildlife and beautiful setting. I'd plumped
for Chongwe River House here, a stunning property which looks like something Fred Flintstone might have
built. I've been fortunate to see a fair few wonderful African camps but this place really took my breath
away. On arrivalyou look right through the house, to the pool and garden and straight down to the Chongwe
River beyond. For once thatteenage expressionof 'totally awesome' is truly accurate.
What Zambia offers over and above some other safari countries is a vast range of activities. Yes,
there are great game drives, but you can also night drive and walk, and in the Lower Zambezi can spend
time exploring on the river too. We canoed a lovely channel off the Zambezi River. The two oldest had
their own canoe and scared themselves witless when they thought they'd spotted a hippo close to their
craft. Since we were in water only a foot or so deep, their imagination had got the better of them but
it kept them alert (and obedient) the whole trip. Watching families of elephant ambling across the river
in front of us was magical. Despite being out of season we managed to catch a few tiger fish, even the
small ones look pretty ferocious. A 30kg Vundu (a type of catfish) was hooked amid much excitement but
managed to make its escape before it could be brought to the boat. After surprise bush suppers, an amazing
lunch on a sand spit in the middle of the Zambezi - watching the chef clear the tiny island of a group
of basking hippo was certainly a novelty - I was a bit concerned that we'd peaked only half way through
the trip.
Luckily, Mchenja in the South Luangwa National Park didn't disappoint. Much more a traditional safari
camp than the house we'd just left, the tents sit in an ebony grove on a graceful bend in the mighty
South Luangwa River. Apart from endless visiting elephants, we had the five tent camp to ourselves which
was a real treat. Game viewing here is superb and the night drives and walking safaris a real highlight.
Walking, considered by my two boys to be a totally pointless activity, takes on a different perspective
when you're looking - on foot - for the lions you heard the night before. That's certainly a walk they'll
remember for a while. We parents came across a huge herd of buffalo one morningand spent a mesmerizing
tea break watching hundreds of water birds fighting over fish in a lagoon. Our brilliant guides found
us leopard and lion, hippo and elephants galore, and all manner of nocturnal species of which my favorite
were the many porcupine which seemed to have an uncanny resemblance to punk rockers as they scuttled
about the bush.
After six nights on safari we left Zambia for Lake Malawi and Kaya Mawa where the pretty cottages
either cling to the rocky shore or sit on the sandy beach. The days drifted by in a haze of diving the
clear fresh waters, kayaking in the bay, quad biking around the island or chilling in the beach bar
and restaurant. Evenings were spent dining on the beach with the lake shore lit by lanterns - just blissful.
So - a disaster? Absolutely, categorically not. We all loved every minute. The teenagers managed
fine without their beloved electrical devices (one of mine even read most of a book which is definitely
a first) and there was more than enough exciting stuff to keep them busy. As for their parents - well,
I think we all agreed it was a holiday that is going to be very hard to beat.
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