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Trip ReportsJames Eacott trip report Northern Tanzania, March 2011 Author: James Eacott If there is an area that could be said to encapsulate all that is safari, Northern Tanzania would be pretty high on the list. With the Serengeti, the fabulous Ngorongoro Crater, and the lesser known but no less wonderful Lake Manyara and Tarangire National Parks it has a bit of everything: abundant wildlife, ancient cultures, truly spectacular scenery and a startling array of camps and lodges. James had been to the top of Mount Kilimanjaro but had not before experienced ground level Tanzania. Here’s the report he wrote on his two week visit in March 2011. From his start point in Arusha, James travelled to Tarangire then Lake Manyara. From here to the Ngorongoro Crater followed by the southern Serengeti, then the northern Serengeti on the border of Kenya’s Masai Mara before finishing in the Grumeti region to the west of this great park. 14th March Long drive from Arusha to Swala - about two hours to the Tarangire National Park gate, then a further three hours to the camp. Already amazed at how much wildlife I have seen – obviously I have nothing to compare it to, but have seen hundreds of elephant, loads of buffalo, zebra, different species of gazelle and about eight lion. There must be overwhelming amounts in the dry season. A few tsetse flies, but nothing to complain about really – they can get you through clothing though which I didn’t realise! Swala Camp, Tarangire National Park
Rooms are very spacious with an enormous double bed, flush loo and both indoor and outdoor showers. All tents can be converted to a triple if needs be. They can take maximum of 27 guests, though only seven here at the mo. Had lovely dinner with great, personable hosts Liz and Garth – already eaten way too much, should have said no to the 5th truffle. Although there are scheduled activities, it's the clients holiday and guests are encouraged to do their own thing if they wish – read in the library, chill by the waterhole, enjoy the bar etc.
We drove about three hours to the park gate, saw great game again – lion, hundreds of elephant, terrapin (in a big puddle), tortoise, zebra, impala etc, and onto Manyara Ranch. 15th March
I think Manyara Ranch has real promise. It's perfect for those wanting the activities of Laikipia in Kenya, but in Tanzania. We didn’t leave Manyara Ranch until about 4pm so bombed to Karatu (lovely town) to Gibbs Farm where we just had about an hour to whizz round and see some rooms.
We drove from Gibbs to the Crater, and took about 1 hour 30 mins to get to the lodge. Lovely drive on perfect tarmac roads and then on rich red fertile soils to the crater rim. This area certainly feels and looks more wealthy. There are banks, petrol stations, hundreds of kids in schools.
Difficult to call this one. It's SO outrageously luxurious (and expensive) and not really my thing, but I CAN see why it’s so successful. The location is superb and could not be beaten...anywhere. The food is top quality and the wines and spirits on offer were again top notch. 16th March
Saw so much game it was epic, and hardly saw any cars at all. Maybe four or five in three hours. Saw rhino, hyena, buffalo, thousands of wildebeest and loads more. All Big 5 are in the crater. Nothing migrates out as plenty of food and water. No giraffe as the slopes are too steep as well as poor acacia trees, and no impala as the food isn't correct either. Interestingly, hyenas are usually scavengers, but in the crater, they actively hunt in packs.
Interesting place the Tree House – you do feel very open and in the bush and it could be a little freaky...I’ve already killed two spiders, a bee and some other flying critter and only been here an hour. The wind and rain are properly battering the place too (NB James visited at the start of the rainy season)
The communal area has a cool open kitchen so you can watch the food being prepared. Mid-June to September is best time to visit. Morning and afternoon game drives are available, as well as night drives. Great for birding too – saw so many birds, I wish I knew what I was looking at. All I can manage at the moment is ‘there’s a blue one’, or ‘there’s a red one’.
17th March
From the Lake Manyara gate, we headed back along the main road through Karatu and up towards the crater. Again ascended to the rim, stopped at the view point and carried on west around the rim descending away from the crater towards the Serengeti. From here, you pass the Olduvai Gorge where the Leakey’s made their ancient human remains discovery, and then across the plains where there is literally nothing. Although we didn't go, I’d definitely recommend visiting the Olduvai Gorge as we heard good things about it from guests who visited en route...long drive so good to break it up.
What’s great about this camp, in its current location down south is that you can drive anywhere you want as it’s still technically in the Ngorongoro Conservation Area so can follow any tracks and any game. This paid off as we tracked some lions and sat within two meters of them watching them play for 30 minutes. Amazing. Walking is also permitted, but only in the local area. Note that the location sometimes does change to the Serengeti which would mean no off roading direct from camp.
Interestingly, we were the last guests of the season and they were closing down immediately after we left, but we didn't know this at all – I think that says a lot for the staff, they still made every effort to make us comfortable even though they probably wanted to pack up asap. 18th March
Only game drives at the moment, but they are hoping to be able to arrange walking soon. The eight tents are quite private, spaced about 30m apart. The wildlife is superb and we saw plenty even though we were there for just two hours. 19th March
There are loads of activities here (technically not in Serengeti) – walking, day and night game drives, off roading – the lot. Pretty cool wildlife too. Masai guide Silvanos took me for a sundowner on an amazing Kopje where we built a fire and had a 360 degree view of the entire Serengeti as far as the eye could see. Then did an hours’ night drive – saw a surprising amount, more than I thought we would. Eyes obviously glint which makes spotting things easier than expected and we saw lots of hyena, mongoose, bat-eared fox, wildcat etc. I like the concept of this place, there is certainly a very strong cultural feel and the camp is linked closely to the Masai communities based nearby so great for social interaction – as guests can visit the boma's etc. 20th March Left Nduara Loliondo at 7am for the long drive to Serian, arriving at about 5:30pm It's a beautiful camp and seriously, seriously remote – I can’t emphasise this enough!
The main selling point is obviously the guaranteed private vehicle. There’s usually a younger driver who will be fluent in English accompanied by a very experienced Masai guide for support, so it works incredibly well. Alex (owner/host) is very charismatic and makes the experience that much more special.
Immediately, it strikes me that this is an absolute minimum three night camp, you could almost stay a whole week, there’s so much to do – great if you don’t want to be travelling around too much. 21st March
What a setting – absolutely stunning, I’m not sure this has been beaten anywhere.
I really like Sayari. It's perfectly located for the migration and offers really lavish but classy accommodation. Joe drove us back to Kogatende airstrip – about 20 mins via the Mara River to get a glimpse of the hippos and crocs again. Flew west from here to the Grumeti region to look at Singita’s (well known for the their luxurious South African lodges) three lodges here. 22 March
23rd March
The main communal areas include a spa and gym with awesome views as well as the lounge / dining area / library / TV area. Elevated decks and two large infinity swimming pools add to the contemporary design and comfortable living.
You can also fly up to Kogatende to watch some crossings if you want. Your guide will drive up the night before and collect you from the airstrip and you can fly back that evening. I’m no rider, so can’t really do this place justice. But briefly, it’s impeccable, the stables are stunning and obviously very well kept. They have a mixture of horses from a variety of backgrounds. Minimum age is 14 and the ratio is two guides per maximum of six riders. This is for experienced riders only. 24th March
Back to Arusha to connect with onward flight back home. An epic trip and I can’t wait to start chatting to clients about it. |
Absolutely stunning location, no fences so wildlife is free to roam around. Very green at the moment, making it feel slightly claustrophobic, especially with deep clouds and humid weather, but I can imagine in the dry season it’s lovely and open, and you’d able to see for miles. Feels very in the middle of nowhere, being the southern most camp in the park.
Quite a basic camp, incredibly secluded. Only six tents – each is very simply but nicely done with flush loos and running water. I didn’t think I’d like it but was proved wrong. Located in the Manyara Conservancy (44,000 acres), it is an enterprise operating in partnership with the Maasai communities through the Tanzania Land Conservation Trust and the African Wildlife Foundation. The Conservancy exists to protect the migration corridors that lie between Lake Natron, Ngorongoro, Manyara, Tarangire and the Masailands to the south.
They offer day and night game drives, horse riding, game walks, fly camping, bush hides, cultural visits, tracking – anything you want to do. A fair amount of wildlife, though saw relatively little – elephants, zebra the usual suspects – but we were only there for lunch. There are apparently good numbers of aardvark, wild dog, lesser kudu and aardwolf. The Masai by graze on the outskirts of the conservancy...we passed quite a few with cattle herds on our way in and out.
The three properties close to Karatu: Gibbs, Plantation and Manor are all very similar in room layout, style and in what they’re looking to achieve. The Manor is more expensive and has a similar feel to Ngorongoro Crater Lodge, so for guests travelling between the Serengeti and Tarangire who want a luxurious couple of days, perhaps with a crater tour as well, the Manor is for them. The other two are a bit more authentic African, more chilled out and slightly more free with what you get up to.
Incredibly lavish and luxurious and certainly unique! North and South camp have their own individual communal and eating areas. Both have 12 rooms, while Tree camp has six rooms and is more enclosed and private. The rooms have every little detail covered – iPod docking station with speakers, your own chocolate / Turkish delight box, bath, shower, fire place, sherry etc – everything. Rooms are incredible, with amazing views all looking out over the crater from the rim, even from the loo.
Got up at 5am to go on a crater descent which was amazing, a real highlight. Drove about 15 minutes around the rim to the descent road which took us 600m lower to the floor in approx 45 minutes. There’s one road which descends, one which ascends, and one which does both.
From here around three and a half hours’ drive to Lake Manyara Tree Lodge. The park is really interesting – not half as much game as seen elsewhere, but real diversity of environments, from rainforest and woodland to open plains and the lake which occupies 75% of the National Park.
Has a great setting in a narrow section of the park, 45kms from the main gate, and is furthest south by a long way so don't get other vehicles in the area. Great backdrop with the massive escarpment which runs the length of the entire park. There are ten tree houses, three of which can accommodate triples – all others are twins and doubles. The treehouses are certainly very unique and well designed and cleverly thought out. The veranda is very private, as the houses are from the others, and would make a great place to have some meals or just chill out.
Overall I really love the concept it would be a great honeymoon destination for perhaps two nights, as it is very secluded and romantic. I loved the park and would definitely promote it as it's certainly unique, if you didn’t want to stay here you could use Gibbs, Plantation or Manor and take a day drive to the park to the more interesting and more wildlife-diverse regions.
We drove back through the park, taking about three hours as we saw some decent game. Hippo, loads of baboons and elephant, giraffe, warthog etc. I'm a fan of the park itself, I like the diversity and quirkiness of it – nothing to obvious, but lots of subtle stuff. Thousands of birds too. Apart from Arusha National Park and Mahale, it's the only park which has such density of flora – it almost felt like the Amazon in places.
Already this place feels like home, it’s really relaxed with great managers. Six tents all doubles and twin, but can be a triple though only if the third person is a child of 12 years or younger. En suite bathrooms, bucket showers, wash basin, chemical flush loo, lanterns. Communal areas comprise bean-bags, comfy sofas, a small library with great books and maps, and a little bar area. Nothing over the top, just perfect. I thought the chemical loo might be a bit dodgy, but as long as when you bend down to pull the necessary handle to operate the flush you don’t stick your head in the bowl as I did the first time, you'll be fine.
This camp is amazing. I absolutely love it, definitely my favourite so far (turns out to be my favourite throughout) and it's going to be hard to beat. The atmosphere is laid-back, the hosting is perfectly balanced and the game in the near vicinity is brilliant. Small things, like when you are at dinner they make your bed up with a hot water bottle, are brilliant, but not over the top which is perfect.
We drove from SSC northwards about an hour and a half to the southern gate of the Serengeti and proceeded another hour to Dunia Camp, one of Asilia's mobile camps located on the Moru Kopjes in south central Serengeti.
It was a beautiful morning but the second we were there the heavens opened. Really refreshing but it all got a bit muddy right outside the tents which isn’t ideal. Having said that, the team reacted quickly and got everything under canvas in a matter of minutes.
Drove about four hours north-westwards towards Loliondo – had a bush breakfast en route which was cool. Nduara is a really interesting place. Six yurts and a mess tent and lounge yurt make up the camp The yurts are funky and certainly unique with large double bed and a little walkway through to the en suite area which has a bucket shower and short drop loo.
The six tents are very spacious with large comfortable double bed, flushing toilet, bucket shower which I think must be bigger than others I've had as it went on for ages and was gushing out! Comfortable carpet and huge soft rugs too. Hot water from the taps on demand and a bush bath available on request, which is cool - it's a big copper job.
Loads of activities and as they’re just outside the reserve you can do day drives, night drives, off roading, walking, hiking, fly camping, sundowners, private meals - everything. As it's only about two hours from the crater, you can do a day trip and be back in time for dinner which is epic.
Onto Kogatende (via a short flight from Ndutu) in the northern Serengeti and an area that borders Kenya’s Masai Mara National Park. We went on a sort game drive on arrival to get a feel of the area, and how different it does indeed feel to the south. I prefer it up here – there's just a lot more variation – loads of kopjes, open plains, riverine ecosystems and even though the migration isn't up here right now, the game is still good. In 45 minutes we saw loads of hippo, antelope, mongoose, gazelle, buffalo, giraffe and some crocodiles – absolutely enormous crocodiles. There's also resident cheetah, lion and leopard all nearby.
There are 15 tents in total – nine on one side, and six on the other. Each wing has its own dining area so guests don't have to yomp to the same area - the tents are quite spaced out and the distance from one end of the camp to the other is about 1km. The ‘tents’, if you can call them that, are immense with a lovely wide open veranda and huge couch giving amazing views over the plains towards the Mara river, and beyond into Kenya. The main doors are sliding glass and open up to the bedroom with a massive double bed. Proper flushing loo and enormous shower – the biggest I think I've ever seen. There is plenty of space to relax, including a swimming pool, bar area and library.
Game drives are the main activity and located so close to the Mara River, the crossings in the migration period are numerous. There are nine crossing points within easy reach and you're almost guaranteed to see lots if you come between July and October. They drive both on the camp side of the river, as well as on the north side in the Lemai region when they can get there – if the bridge isn't flooded, as it is now.
The lodge is built on the ridge in the style of an old English Manor and is made up of ten cottages with grand views. All the cottages are different and have up to four bedrooms, all with cracking views across the plains below, and a large outside area with verandah and plunge pool. They're all kitted out with air conditioning, TV, wireless internet, dressing room, telephone etc.
Sabora is reminiscent of an 'Out of Africa' adventure, with its 1920s tents. With wide open plains spreading out from all angles, the camp is perfectly situated to take in the migration when it passes through in June / July / August. The term tents has to be used loosely here as the interiors come with four poster beds, fully stocked mini-bars, beautiful Kenyan furniture, large bathroom , outdoor showers, flushing loo, bar area, complimentary port – everything has been thought of. They have six tents, some of which are joined to suit families.
The lodge is built on the side of a hill overlooking two permanent waterholes and the Grumeti River. It is built in a contemporary style which works very well. The nine suites (including the family villa) are air-conditioned and are equipped with all mod-cons – telescope, expansive views through the wide windows, flush loo, mini bar, free telephone and outdoor chill out area and shower.
Game drives are obviously the main activity at these three properties, in the morning and afternoon – although they are scheduled you can also do your own thing or use a private vehicle so you can go when you want. Other activities include archery, badminton, tennis, community tours (we did one which was really interesting and very worthwhile), gym facilities, spa, mountain biking from Sasakwa lodge and hot air ballooning, to name a few.